A Surfing Story–For the New Year
I was face down on a surfboard about half a mile off the beach at Waikiki. I had always wanted to try to ride the Hawaiian surf, but out here among these giant green swells I suddenly didn’t feel very adventuresome.
“This is far enough,” said the brown-skinned beach boy who had accompanied me on his own board. “Now turn and face the beach. When a wave lifts your board, paddle hard. Then stand up.”
Stand up? “Tell me,” I croaked, trying to keep the panic out of my voice, “what’s the main thing to remember?”
“The main thing?” he repeated with a smile. “Don’t look back!”
The next wave lifted the board. Ahead of me a great chasm seemed to open in the sea. The board tilted down and plunged deep into an emerald precipice that seemed almost vertical. I tried…
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